Silk Production - A Bit of History

There are few stories in the history of mankind that are as remarkable as that of silk. Silk has been produced for over 5,000 years. It originated in China, and the Chinese successfully guarded the secret of producing silk for several thousand years. Eventually the knowledge spread, probably being passed along the silk road, that exotic sounding trade route that ran from China to the Mediterranean and then beyond via ships.

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People started following the silk road some 4,000 years ago. Very few people traversed its entire length, with the notable exception of Marco Polo (1256-1323), the famous explorer. Polo noticed silk in many of the fairs and bazaars he saw while traveling through what is today the Middle East, Iran, Uzbekistan, and elsewhere. Thus silk production was clearly widespread in the middle ages of our era.

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The secret to silk production is to have both silkworms and mulberry trees, preferably the white mulberry, which is the only food the silkworms, or more accurately, caterpillars, will eat. They are essentially mulberry leaf eating machines. When the caterpillars are fully grown they produce a cocoon by extruding silk from their bodies. The extrusion starts as a liquid and then solidifies after contacting air. The purpose of the cocoon is to protect the pupa, which will eventually turn into a moth, although only enough moths are allowed to develop to support the next generation of silk worms.

The cocoons are remarkable in that they are made from just one long, thin, strand of silk, and it takes know-how to unravel the single strand, which is normally about 400-500 meters in length. The strands, or threads, are eventually woven into cloth. Clothing is of course the main product made from silk, however other products have also been produced. These include ropes and such things as parachutes and maps in WWII.

In the 15th century silk production came to France, and eventually the city of Lyon (pronounced lee on), now the third largest city in France and a great place to visit, became the center of European silk production. Lyon still has an important silk museum. By 1544 about 12 thousand people were involved in silk production there, according to Dr. John Falkwell in his book "The Story of Silk". The industry progressed steadily, and in the 1880's there were 200,000 people employed in Lyon, a remarkable number.

With an eye on the success of the silk industry in France, King James I of England made a major effort in the 17th century to establish a silk industry both in England and in the colonies at the time (i.e., the U.S. today). These efforts never really took hold in the long term, and the silk industry in those places never came close to the level achieved in France.

Silk production is a very labor intensive effort, and in the early 20th century a combination of labor strife, and especially the invention of synthetic fabrics like rayon and nylon, largely led to the demise of the silk industry in Europe. What remains are little cottage industries here and there, as in several parts of England. The top producing country today is once again China. India also produces a lot of silk, and they are the leading producers of wild silks, that is, silk produced from wild caterpillars, in particular tussah silk, from the silk moth of the same name.

The history of silk production is long and legendary. In fact legend has it that a Chinese princess over 5,000 years ago discovered how to unravel silk when a cocoon dropped into her hot cup of tea. (Cocoons are immersed in hot water in order to remove the sort of glue produced by the insect that holds the cocoon together.) In any case it is amazing that one of the world's most desired fabrics comes from the secretions of a caterpillar. Even more remarkable is the significant role this fabric has played in the world's economy for over 5,000 years.

Silk Production - A Bit of History
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Repair Stand

Different Types of Deburring Tools

Deburring is the protruding, ragged edge elevated on the actual surface of metal in the course of drilling, shearing, punching, or engraving. It is a tiny, hand-held, power-driven milling cutter, utilized by machinists and also die makers for deepening, widening, or undercutting tiny recesses. The usual materials used for deburring are metal, stainless steel, wood and plastic.

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It is necessary for manufacturing companies to possess a deburring machine or tool in their facility. When cutting metal or plastic using a saw it ends up with rough, incomplete edges. Deburring materials when needed can help prolong the life span of the material or thing, for example a cut pipe can be hazardous to a person if it is not smooth on both ends or plastic materials that are sold to consumers need smooth ends for safety. These edges have got burrs surrounding them that may cause difficulty in finishing the project without deburring. There are numerous devices or method when deburring sharp ends, but files, hand deburring tools and bench grinder are also specifically made for this task and provide easy, quick edge reduction.

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Listed here are three different kinds of deburring tools.

Deburring files are easy and quick technique to deburr metals in a manufacturing business. A file utilized for deburring can vary from little precision or large for huge parts. A mechanist or the particular person assigned at the deburring process must have his own set of files as the basic tool set. It is vital to only file the part in one direction, which is away from the body to maintain the files' effectiveness instead of filing towards the body that will dull the part. You have to glide the file away from the body parallel with the ground in a fluid motion against the burr. Lift the file off the item after you have completely extended your arm and go back to the starting point while spinning the part to the next area that really needs particular attention.

Hand deburring tools are typically used to remove parts with two edges. The tools have replaceable carbide blades inserts that runs along an edge to get rid of little bits of metals. This will create a flat area protecting the possibility of cutting yourself. The hand tool has a swivel that lets you use the tool at any perspective on any surface. There are V-shaped inserts along with U-shaped inserts to form numerous angles and spare inserts could be stored in the tool handle.

Bench grinder is another way of deburring metal parts by making use of wheels as the grinder or to create curves on the metal part. This process of deburring operates quickly. Although heat is produced by the metal and wheel, you need to have a suitable container or cup of water in the same place to dip the metal part in for cooling.

Deburring can be achieved in various types and technique according to the need of your project. You can use deburring machines and also tools to smooth out these rough sides creating a thoroughly clean, smooth finished look and a polished appearance.

Different Types of Deburring Tools
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Christmas Sales Pro-Quality 20-Piece Diamond-Point Bit Set for Rotary Tool - Glass, Stone, Ceramic 201

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DEWALT DW1956 Pilot Point 16-Piece Twist Drill Bit Assortment

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Christmas Sales DEWALT DW1956 Pilot Point 16-Piece Twist Drill Bit Assortment Feature

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  • Bits include (in inches) two 1/16-, 5/64-, 3/32-, 7/64-, 1/8-, 9/64-, 5/32- and 11/64-inch split point drill bits
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The DeWalt DW1956 16-piece Pilot Point twist drill bit assortment comes with pilot point tips for starts on contact that result in clean, accurate holes. These bits are designed to reduce lock-up on breakthrough, and also feature a no-spin shank that eliminates the frustration of bit spinning in the chuck. Other features include a tapered web for greater durability and reduced breaking, and size markings that are located above the shank to prevent wearing away. This kit comes with two 1/16-inch, one 5/64-inch, one 3/32-inch, one 7/64-inch, one 1/8-inch, one 9/64-inch, one 5/32-inch, and one 11/64-inch split point drill bits and one 3/16-inch, one 13/64-inch, one 7/32-inch, one 1/4-inch, one 5/16-inch, one 3/8-inch, and one 1/2-inch pilot point drill bits, and a secure carrying case.



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Cake Decorating Tools

Every artwork requires the use of special equipment. Just in case you did not consider cake decoration as a piece of artwork, it is time you woke up to the fact that it is. Baking is no hard task, wait till it comes to the decor bit of it. You will realize that, in order to obtain favorable results, you will need to have cake decorating tools. They can be obtained on or offline in a number of varied designs, shapes and sizes.

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A good artist will tell you that the choice of equipment to use will largely depend on the kind artwork you hope to achieve. This is true when it comes to the kitchen too. The choice of the cake decorating tools will greatly be influenced by the patterns or designs you want to impose on the baked food item. Your imagination will spell your limit for you.

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If for example you want to use flowers as part of the decoration, then you must first decide whether you want to use the artificial ones or the live and edible ones. If you settle for the artificial ones, then there are a few equipment that you will need so that you can glaze them to achieve a good effect. If you want to frost it, then you will need a syringe-like tool that will help you squeeze out the icing as you make the design that you want. The size will depend on the thickness of the paste of the icing.

Another decorating tool that you can use to spread the icing is the spatula. They too come in different shapes and the angled one are bound to do a better job. A fondant roller gives you the opportunity to create spiral patterns that will give you a swirled texture.

Cake Decorating Tools
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Christmas Sales Black & Decker 15557 10-Piece Drill Bit Set 201

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Christmas Sales Black & Decker 15557 10-Piece Drill Bit Set Feature

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The Ultimate Guide to Your Most Dangerous Woodworking Power Tools

"What is the most dangerous woodworking power tool?"

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That's what I asked the woodworkers at the woodworking forums FamilyWoodworking.org and WoodNet.net.

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WoodNet.net's woodworkers responded with 55 replies and the guys at FamilyWoodworking.org responded with 51 replies with over 3000 views between them.

The chilling experiences and hard-knock wisdom from both forums inspired this article, and I hope that by reading this and following the links I provide that you become a safer, more tool-respecting woodworker.

The #1 Most Dangerous Power Tool
After over 100 responses to the "most dangerous tool" question the seasoned woodworkers from both forums delivered an unequivocal answer.

There IS INDEED a power tool that's more dangerous than any other in your wood shop and you need to treat this tool with more respect and care than your table saw, shaper, jointer or chain saw.

And the number one most dangerous power tool in your wood shop is YOU.

Make sure that YOU treat every tool with the respect and care it deserves, that every tool you use is well maintained and well sharpened, and that your wood shop or work area is tidy enough to prevent spills.

Also, learn to listen closely to your internal voice of experience. Many woodworkers report thinking "gosh this is dangerous," or "this could really hurt" right before their big trip to the emergency room. Back off immediately if you find your safety senses tingling.

Dig deeper into basic wood shop safety by checking out these web pages:
Basic Woodshop Safety (by a woodworker)
Hand and Power Tools: Hazards and Solutions (what OSHA thinks)
Shop Safety Checklist (should get you thinking... check it out before your next project)
Using your Woodworking Tools Safely (in depth stuff from About.com)

and... ALWAYS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH YOUR POWER TOOLS FOR MAXIMUM SAFETY.

For full safety resources, check out the original article: The Ultimate Guide to Your Top Ten Most Dangerous Woodworking Power Tools

The Ultimate Guide to Your Wood Shop's Top Ten Most Dangerous Power Tools
And so, without further ado, here's the table of contents for this safety guide:I) the top ten most feared and respected tools by Woodworkers
II) The Most Dangerous Power Tools Statistically
III) The Condition of the User
IV) The Condition of the Tools
V) The Condition of Your Workspace
VI) Woodworking Safety Accessories
VII) the Woodworker's First Aid Kit

I) the Top Ten Most Feared and Respected Tools by Woodworkers
Below you'll find the top ten most feared and respected woodworking power tools based on the votes they received in FamilyWoodworking and WoodNet. I counted votes as tool mentions, and I counted more than one "most dangerous tool" per person if they listed more than one. This is NOT intended to be scientific in any way, nor is it intended to suggest that you be more careful with one tool than any other.

Also, because these woodworkers indicated that maintenance is such an important factor in tool safety, I included maintenance resources - when available - for each tool.

There's a similar non-scientific most dangerous woodworking tool survey from rec.woodworking... the results are quite similar, though neither survey listed there include a wood shaper...

Also, WoodNet's Jakesaw pointed out this web-based power tool safety project that lets you input how you got hurt, what hurt you, and your experience level so that others can come later and learn from your mistakes. AWESOME.

Update - Yak from WoodNet pointed to the mother of all woodworker's safety guides from OSHA.

1) YOU are the most dangerous power tool (or - alternately - which ever tool you use next is the most dangerous)
I'm not sure if the tool operator got the most votes for being the most dangerous or not. I do estimate that "the power tool operator" got the most overall conversation, discussion and debate in both forums.

Treat every tool you use with respect... and check out the "condition of the user" section below for more ideas on keeping a "safety first" mentality while using power tools.

It's impossible to overemphasize that the tool between your ears is really the most dangerous tool you possess...

Brain Maintenance Links
Preventive Maintenance For the Brain

2) The Table Saw: 15 Votes
The table saw received the most votes, beating out the shaper by two.

I noticed that many guys who said "table saw" mentioned that they'd heard it was the most statistically dangerous, not that they feared or respected it the most.

Even so, the table saw is a formidable wood shop tool and worthy of respect due to its frequency of use and the sheer number of saws in wood shops around the world.

Table Saw Safety Links:
Two Dozen Table Saw Safety Tips
Table Saw Safety - There is a Lot to It!
Table Saw Safety Procedures

Table Saw Maintenance:
Table Saw Maintenance (this article includes a table saw maintenance schedule... NICE!)

3) The Shaper: 13 Votes
I sensed the most power tool respect... and fear... in the replies that included the mighty shaper. What is it that gives woodworkers pause when firing up the "grand father of routers?" It's got to be the size of the blades on those bits... and the realization of the size of hole it could make in your body.

Shaper:

Shaper blades:

Shaper Safety Links
Shaper Safety

One woodnetter provided defense of the shaper to folks who swore against using it.
(Learn more about the wood shaper.)

4) Chain Saw: 6 Votes
The roaring engine, the exposed and oh-so-mobile blade, the Texas Chain Saw Massacre, is it any surprise that the chain saw made its way onto the list? My only surprise is that it made the list from guys at woodworking forums... that said, there is an interesting thread in woodnet about chain saw sawmills...

Chain Saw Safety Links
Chain Saw Safety
Chain Saw Safety: No Tricks
Chain Saw Safety (from About.com)

Chainsaw Maintenance Links
CHAINSAW MAINTENANCE (includes maintenance schedule)

5) Router: 6 Votes
In the tool kit of many a wood shop, the versatile router is also amongst the top most-feared power tools, though primarily when used free hand. Why? Some guys have gruesome imaginations when it comes to fixing physical damage from a router... as one forum member put it, you can sew fingers back on but there's no sewing back what a router could do to you.

Router Safety Links
Safety Tips for your Router
Router Safety Tips

Router Maintenance Links
Router Maintenance (from DIY network)

6) The Jointer: 6 Votes
The jointer made it up into a three-way tie with the chain saw and the router. Probably because of the ease with which one could feed one's hand into it... plus the fact that it's not going to gash you, but rather give you a puree-style wound.

Jointer Safety Links
Jointer Safety Practices (scroll - it's at the bottom)
Safety Hazards of Jointers and Planers (from CA's OSHA)

7) The Band Saw: 3 Votes
The band saw is another wood shop standard that seems relatively harmless... especially next to something like a chain saw. I think it made the list in part because it's a tool that many woodworker are comfortable with. Comfortable = dangerous.

Tod Evans of FamilyWoodworking said, "for myself i need to be very careful using the bandsaw `cause after a short time i notice my eyes drooping kinda following the downward path of the blade...."

Band Saw Safety Links
Woodworking Band Saw Safety Procedures
BANDSAW SAFETY

Band Saw Maintenance
The Band Saw: Tune Up and Maintenance

8) The Chisel: 2 Votes
You may wonder what hand tools are doing here on the most dangerous power tool list. Well... they're here and they reemphasize the point that the most dangerous tool is the one that you're using and that the one you treat with the least respect is liable to be the one that bites you.

Chisel Safety Links
Chisel Usage and Safety
Chisel safety (from About.com)

Chisel Maintenance
Sharpen Planes And Chisels Without Going Broke

9) The Radial Arm Saw: 2 Votes
The radial arm saw potentially exposes you to a LOT of blade, and the RAS was one of the few tools that some woodworkers said they flat out WILL NOT USE.

Radial Arm Saw Safety Links
Radial Arm Saw Safety Procedures
Radial Arm Saws
Radial-Arm Saw Safety Tips (scroll down)

10) The Circular Saw: 2 Votes
The circular saw is a power tool standard. Its usage spans across groups, from DIYers to woodworkers to general contractors and beyond. Save for the religiously-hand tooled, few self-respecting tool kits are without a circular saw and, like the table saw or band saw, familiarity and frequent usage make them dangerous.

Circular Saw Safety Links
Safe Operation of Portable Circular Power Saws
circular saw safety
How to Use a Circular Saw
Choosing and Using a Circular Saw
(interesting - the history of the circular saw)

****Remember, ALL TOOLS ARE DANGEROUS. But not all of them got into the top ten from WoodNet and FamilyWoodworking.****

11) The Miter Saw: 1 Vote
The miter saw has a big blade and it's used for quick, chopping cuts that can easily claim a digit.

Miter Saw Safety Links
Chop Saw Safety for Beginners
Miter Saw Safety
Chop Saw Safety

12) Air Powered Nailers: 1 Vote
Guess who voted for the nail gun as most dangerous power tool? That's right - someone who's not likely to get bit by one again.

Nailer Safety Links
Pneumatic Nailers - Safety & Use Tips
Use Nail Gun Safely

13) Sanders: 1 Vote
Sanders seem like they'd be the least dangerous of power tools. Someone else probably thought the same thing just before a trip to the emergency room.

Sander Safety Links
Sander Safety
What should you do before using sanders?

14) Angle Grinder: 1 Vote
Exposed, whirling metal. Yeah, this guy's worthy of some goggles. And gloves... GOTCHA! Don't use gloves - they could get pulled into the whirling mechanism.

Angle Grinder Safety Links
SAFETYLINE ESSENTIALS: - ANGLE GRINDERS
angle griders safety safety safety!! rant

15) A Coiled Extension Cord: 1 Vote
What painful experience won the extension cord a spot on the most dangerous power tools list? I don't want to think about it. Keep your work area safe and as neat as possible.

Extension Cord Maintenance

16) Buffing Wheel: 1 Vote
Keep your hair tied up while using this little beast - especially for quick jobs.

Buffing Wheel Safety Links
buffing wheel safety

II) The Most Dangerous Power Tools Statistically
I noticed once or twice in the forums guys cited government studies regarding which tools are, statistically speaking, responsible for putting the most guys in the emergency room.

In the study I found from the US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) - Hazard Screening Report: Power Tools and Workshop Equipment from 2003 (warning - that link is a PDF) - I was NOT able to statistically determine the power tool that put the most people in the hospital.

HOWEVER, the tool group - after "manual workshop tools (hammers, utility knives, chisels etc...)" and "Misc. workshop tools" - that caused the most health care EXPENSE was Bench or Table Saws, at around billion.

Anecdotally speaking, Frank Fusco of FamilyWoodworking, whose son is a Board Certified emergency room physician in a Level 1 trauma unit, noted: "I'll repeat what my son, an emergency room physician, says. The most frequent serious injuries are with table saws.

The second most frequent serious injuries, in terms of numbers of incidents, are from miter and/or compound miter sliders.

However, in terms of most devasting the CSM is far and away the worst. Those usually involve finger amputations. The table saw accidents are serious gashes but (usually) leave the fingers in place.

He also says that most of those injuries are to guys like me, middle age to retired age. And, they all say the same thing, 'I never do it that way, but just this once.........'"Don't let the statistics scare you - too much. It only makes sense that the tools that we use the most frequently end up hurting us the most frequently. It's far more important to look at our next section - the condition of the user.

III) The Condition of the User
Time and again the guys in the forums reminded me that the USER is the most dangerous power tool, and that the most dangerous power tool is the one that you pick up next.

I identified several other condition-of-the-user-related points from their comments, and combined that with some wise words from Basic Woodshop Safety, by Howard Ruttan, who I'll quote here:"If you are hungry or sick, tired or angry, hot or thirsty, you are at risk. Don't work if you are overly fatigued or not feeling up to your game. Attitude is extremely important also. Remember that woodworking is supposed to be fun. Isn't that why you are doing it? Take a break when you get frustrated. Don't work angry."

Some other dangerous mental conditions include:woodworker's just too comfortable with the tool and doesn't give it proper respect trying new tool out just for a second - one woodworker told a story of opening up a new chisel just to try it out for a second, resulting in a trip to the hospital ignored/didn't fully recognize the importance of the pre-tingles that sometimes come before getting hurt (STAY ALERT!! many injured by power tools report tingling senses...) trying something new, cutting/chopping/ripping/drillng in a different way - experimentation is important and necessary... and risky. Remember the words that Fusco's son hears in the trauma unit from injured woodworkers: "I never do it that way, but just this once........" working tired, hungry, rushed, angry or some combo of the four... lazy - doing job the quick way do I really need to put drunk or drinking alcohol on here? Gosh I really hope not.

IV) The Condition of the Tools
"i`d say that i agree with the most dangerous powertool being one that`s poorly maintained, specifically one with dull cutters....
shapers/routers-n-moulders will turn meat into hamburger....no repairs!"
- Tod Evans

Tod, of FamilyWoodworking, says it well. Take care of each power tool you own as advised in the manual. Sharper is safer.

Tool Maintenance Made Easy, an excellent article from Rockler, breaks it down like this:

Part I - Keeping Them Sharp
Part II - Keeping Them True
Part III - Keeping Them Clean and Smooth
Part IV - Keeping Them Running Smooth

Want the details? Read Tool Maintenance Made Easy for tips and advice.

If you'd like a second opinion This Old House brings us TLC for Power Tools.

OSHA delivers, more for the wood shop business owner, HAND AND PORTABLE POWERED TOOLS, which includes common repairs and things to watch for.

V) The Condition of Your Workspace
Are you the neat and tidy type? If you're like me you've got dishes on your desk and clothes on the bedroom floor. This means you have to work twice as hard to keep your wood shop or workspace safe through cleanliness and organization.

That said, it's not just tidiness that keeps you safe... it's also keeping your workspace free from distractions that break your vital concentration. This includes, but it not limited to the radio, someone hollering that the phone is for you, your cell phone ringing and the list could go on...

Minimize interruptions by notifying - in no uncertain terms - the folks around you that they are not to speak to you when you're operating power tools.

from SAFETY IN THE WOODSHOP I'd like to point you to:
Make certain you have proper lighting when carving. Spotlights are preferable to overhead incandescent or fluorescent lighting. Lighting located behind and to your side best highlights your work.

Keep floor swept and clear of tools and other clutter. Wood chips and dust pose many safety concerns (e.g. respiratory, fire, safe footing).

And keep those power cords off the floor!

The National Ag Safety Database offers some great guidelines on a safe wood shop. They include suggestions and guidelines for stuff like lighting, heat source, ventilation, wiring, fire extinguishers and more.

Here's Shop Safety by the NASD.

This shop safety guide from Ohio State provides an excellent shop safety checklist... and then safety guides to many of the power tools mentioned above.

VI) Woodworking Safety Accessories
Do you have push sticks, push blocks and a finger or feather board? These are very easy to make and are available practically anywhere you can buy good power tools or wood.

Here's a short little guide to using push sticks to increase your safety Using Push Sticks

About.com's Chris Baylor teaches you how to Make Your Own Featherboards

And the DIY network offers a rundown on all of the woodworking safety accessories I mentioned above.

VII) First Aid
You keep a first aid kit in your wood shop for the same reason you drive with auto insurance. No NOT because it's the LAW... because luck favors the prepared.

I particularly liked the woodworker's first aid kit as described by Howard Ruttan. Not only is it comprehensive, but it has some of the real-world humor you only hear from woodworkers. Such as at the end of his reason for keeping a 1 gallon plastic bag in your first aid kit: Used for carrying amputated bits in whilst en route to the hospital. I am not kidding here. Just last year a contractor in Pennsylvania cut his entire hand off in a sliding compound miter saw. The bag has to be big enough for every contingency. Try to wash the amputed part before placing it in the bag. However, if you are unable to, I am sure the doctors will understand.

The DIY network also provides an excellent overview of what should be in your first aid kit.

VIII) Bonus: Wood Shop Safety Humor

"WAIT A MINUTE" I can hear you thinking... what does HUMOR have to do with SAFETY?

One of the cool things about forums - and one of the pains sometimes - is how a conversation thread can take a sharp and sudden turn, sometimes 180 degrees from where it once pointed.

Bill Wilson took the WoodNet.net thread 180 degrees with his clever, creative and funny response to my question about the most dangerous power tools.

Here's a taste:
Welcome to The Wild Wood Shop. Today we will explore the unique ecosystem, known as the home woodshop. Below is a brief description of some familiar wood shop dwellers.

Table Saw (unisawrus rippicus)
A solitary and regal predator, the table saw employs sharp powerful teeth, well suited for ripping even the hardest woods with relative ease. There are several varieties of table saws, ranging from the small bench top, to the king of table saws, indeed the king of the predators, the Unisaw. Though primarily a stationary creature, it is perhaps one of the most active of all woodshop animals. Table saws have proliferated and are found in nearly all shops where wood is in adequate supply. They prefer choice, imported hardwoods, but when hungry will readily feed on cheaper domestic softwoods. They have become less of a threat to humans, due to careful breeding and training, but still are to be considered quite dangerous, especially while feeding. Occasionally they will, with minimal provocation, disgorge their food with breathtaking force.

Push Broom (sweepus seldomus)
The most primitive and oldest species of wood shop animal. It is believed that ancestors of the contemporary push broom were domesticated millions of years before the first wood shop animals appeared and often cohabited with humans. They gradually were relegated to garage, basement and shop environments during the Electrolux era. This venerable and simple scavenger has survived the eons due primarily to its ability to go for long periods of time without food. By conserving its energy, it can appear to fall into a near trance-like state of suspended animation for extended periods of time. Unlike the voracious Dust Collector and Shop Vac with which it competes, the push broom is content to sit idle for days, even months.

Thanks + Wrapping it Up
I would like to extend a special thanks to the woodworkers at WoodNet.net and FamilyWoodworking.org who contributed so much wisdom and experience to this project. If you're hungry for more woodworking community I gladly point you to BOTH forums as wonderful environments for learning.

I hope this guide helped you recognize some ways you can take more responsibility for your personal wood shop safety.

The Ultimate Guide to Your Most Dangerous Woodworking Power Tools
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Christmas Sales Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set 201

Dec 09, 2011 13:54:36

Christmas Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set Deals
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Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set

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Christmas Sales Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set Feature

  • 135-degree split-point tip
  • 1/4-inch shank size
  • 62-piece set
  • Includes clam shell carrying case
  • Compatible with all drills


Christmas Sales Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set Overview

Includes seven black oxide precision 135-degree split point 1/4-inch hex shank drill bits, (2) 1/16-inch, 3/32-inch, (2) 1/8-inch, 3/16-inch, 1/4-inch, (3) wood boring drill bits 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, (9) 2-inch driver bit assortments: slotted, Phillips, Robertson & Torx, (32) 1-inch driver bit assortment: slotted, Phillips, Robertson & Torx, (2) hex-to-square socket adapter: 1/4-inch - 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, (1) max-mag nut drivers: 1/4-inch, 5/16-inch, 3/8-inch

Christmas Sales Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set Specifications

The Makita T-01389 62-piece drill and driver set is a great value -- more accessories, more savings. Every tool is black-oxide coated to resist corrosion, and given a proprietary heat treatment for sharper, longer lasting life. Manufactured with Ultra-Lok 1/4-inch hex shanks, the tools are compatible with all quick-change connector systems, electric or battery-powered drill/drivers, and impact drivers. The drill bits are manufactured using high-speed steel with precision 135-degree split-point tips to prevent drill bit walking. The pro-grade, maximum magnetic 3-inch bit holder and nut drivers provide extra-strong fastener retention.

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T-01389 Features
PERFORMANCE - Pro-Grade Impact Drill-Driver Compatible

DURABILITY - Black Oxide finish resists corrosion and extends drill bit life

VARIETY - 62 pieces of the most commonly used bits provides outstanding versatility for your drilling and driving jobs

CONVENIENCE - Durable, compact storage case

INCLUDES - Injection molded case with 62 pieces

Tool Specifications
Tool Spec
Overall length7-3/4"
Net weight2.1 lbs.
About Makita's Power Tool Accessories
Get the right accessory for your toughest applications. Makita has a full line of accessories including framing blades with advanced "M-Tooth" design, ultra-coated miter saw blades, steel demolition bits, Optimum diamond blades, Thruster Percussion bits, Blue Steel CERMET-tipped blades, and many, many more. Expand your LXT cordless lineup with 18-volt lithium-ion batteries, Energy Star-rated battery chargers, flashlights, and jobsite radios.

Makita LogoAbout Makita
Makita is a worldwide manufacturer of industrial quality power tools and offers a wide range of industrial accessories. Makita applies leading-edge innovation to engineer power tools that are more compact and energy efficient, yet deliver industrial strength power and results. Makita U.S.A., Inc. is located in La Mirada, California, and operates an extensive distribution network located throughout the U.S.Makita is Best in Class Engineering.

Whats in the Box
Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set includes:
Injection molded case
(33) 1-inch Driver bit assortment:
      Phillips bits:
  • 4 Phillips #1   
  • 9 Phillips #2   
  • 4 Phillips #3   
  • Robertson/Square drive bits:   
  • 2 Robertson #1   
  • 3 Robertson #2   
  • 3 Robertson #3   
  • Torx bits:
  • 2 Torx T15      
  • 3 Torx T20      
  • Slotted bits:
  • 1 Slotted 6-8   
  • 2 Slotted 8-10   
  • (9) 2-inch Driver bit assortment:
          Phillips bits:
  • 2 Phillips #2   
  • 2 Phillips #3   
  • Robertson/Square drive bits:   
  • 1 Robertson #2   
  • 2 Robertson #3   
  • Torx bits:
  • 1 Torx T20   
  • 1 Torx T25   
  •  
    (7) UltraLok black oxide drill bits precision/135° split point 1/4-inch hex shank:
          2 1/16-inch, 3/32-inch, 2 1/8-inch, 3/16-inch, 1/4-inch
    (4) Wood boring spade drill bits with spurs:
          3/8-inch, 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch
    (3) 3.5-inch Extended length driver bits:
          Phillips bits: 2 Phillips #2
          Robertson/Square drive bits: 1 Robertson #2
    (3) Magnetic nut drivers:
          1/4-inch, 5/16-inch, 3/8-inch
    (2) Hex-to-Square socket adapter:
          1/4-inch, 3/8-inch
    (1) Magnetic bit holder



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    Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set

    Limited Offer Today!! Makita T-01389 62-Piece Impact Drill-Driver Bit Set Christmas and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

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    Windows 64 - Registry Fix for 64 Bit Machines

    Do you renounce the popular 32 bit machines and instead prefer a 64? Registry fix a 64 bit Windows with a cleaner that's not ready to do so and you may end up needing to resurrect your old 32 bit to have a working PC.

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    Windows 64 bit versions handle data differently from 32 bit machines (the most common type). In particular, they use 64 bits as the standard variable size, instead of 32 bits, which means that programs that are not ready to handle this may end up messing information and produce irreversible information loss.

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    Add this to the already dangerous process of running an unverified registry cleaner (which may, in the best scenario, install malware), and you have a disaster waiting to happen.

    For this reason, it is particularly important that you review cleaners before running your 64 registry fix.

    First you want to make sure that the program is an established name in the registry cleaners market. Bogus software tends to fade away, while stuff that works grows their customer base and positive reviews.

    A good program will also have a free trial for you to try, or, at least, a free scan. Run it and if it finds no errors you have saved yourself some money in the process.

    Finally, why not save yourself the trouble and just read reviews others have made and find out which programs consistently come out as the best in comparisons? If someone has already gone through the trouble of analyzing and testing various trusted registry cleaners out there why not take their advice and run your 64 registry fix using the program they found to be best.

    Windows 64 - Registry Fix for 64 Bit Machines
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    What To Do If You Get Bit By A Ball Python

    Today I am going to talk to you about what you should do if you get bit by a Ball Python, and what you should do after.

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    I have owned snakes for about 10 years now and have been bit on a number of occasions. There are a few guidelines you should follow in order to not hurt the snake.

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    One of the biggest mistakes people do when they get bit is to pull their hand or arm away as quick as possible, bad idea. Not only does this hurt your snake by pulling their teeth out it also will shred your skin up. The very first thing you will do is stay calm. Your snake will realize it cannot eat you and will therefore let go. If your snake bit you because you were irritating it then you can run really cold water over its body, this will usually cause your snake to let go. Not all snakes will respond to the cold water at which time you can turn the hot water on and quickly run your snake under that, whatever you do please do not use water that is hot enough to burn you. This can cause major damage to the snake and potentially kill it.

    Once you have gotten your snake to release its bite. You should wash your hands with soap and water. This will help in removing any bacteria left on the skin. You can also use some antibacterial to help further after washing your hands. The teeth marks will swell some. Before this swelling starts you should take some allergy pills to help with the swelling. The spot may even itch, the allergy pills will help with that as well. Ball Pythons ARE NOT VENOMOUS.

    If your do happen to have a venomous snake and get bitten, please seek out medical help. The solution for a Ball Python will not work.

    This technique will also work with any other python, boa, corn snake, milk snake, and many other non-venomous snakes.

    I hope you have enjoyed the post. If you have any other questions please feel free to visit my website and contact me there.

    Thanks,

    What To Do If You Get Bit By A Ball Python
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